Free Karaoke Downloads Karma Definition on this page. I'm showing you how to figure out what's going on that caused this part of the gel coat to crack so bad. Mostly Americans lean really hard and push on this rear pulpit bracket and the chain plate holds the spar, the traveler holds the main sail boom.

Apr 8, 2012 - 20 minhey andy,love your videos,I got a 1984 bayliner trophy,cant wait to fix it up,need some direction.

Over stressed this area bad. I'm just about done tearing out all the old Gel coat cracks with the entire boat here bow to stern just with these two chisels in the nice weather. And you don't want glass in your lungs either.

Maybe you do, but the insurance companies don't. With the Hazmat shipping charge. I'm saying, I got the 'System 3' epoxy and that would be a $30-$40 Hazmat Extra shipping charge on top of shipping. So If you'd order say a quart of favorite fairing compound for around $50 it would cost another $50 to ship it to. The Micro Balloons are not Hazmat and shipped for the $25 cost and I can make least 2 quarts fairing compound and only $12 shipping. Does that make you sad me saving money? Makes me happy:) And the comments are for my neighbors gossiping on why I'm not appreciated here in America?

Maybe someone here can answer that question for them. Thanks for watching and subscribing. And Sailrite and Jamestown distributors are the professional channels to sub to. They know their stuff. And so do most of the produce commenteers know their stuff in Jamestown Dist. But the rest, not so good. I have those rich man power tools to.

And that one dudes a perfect example of what I mean. Distracting you in every video with his romper room outfit and selling you polyester he's so boring I can't stand it, I had to scream before I died from boredumb and become a zombie like the rest of em. He should be showing ya'll how to put clown makeup on instead. I figured you want to see how its really done professionally.

All things from Epoxy are gel coat. Add Chopped fiber, silica or micro balloons to change the consistency. No reason to have to be a scientist to patch your boat. You got to be wary of someone trying to sell you everything that comes down the pike and don't give a basic price Like I did. Or the accounting dept will fire you:) So it would never work out, us working together. Maybe in a 1000 years after you dig me up.

This was sprayed on at the factory. But the strongest are the hand laid fiberglass and the most expensive to. Example; Crash helmets, the sprayed ones are like $20 and the laid ones are upward of $100.

Sorry about that, some of us have to work at the boat yard with no power tools or paint our own boats while their in the water docked up. Or we're not fixing up some boat to sell it and it breaks out all over again after we paid $300 for new top coat. If that's the case, get your paint a Homedepot.

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Filling in the Gaps There are many ways to repair cracks in fiberglass—which one’s the best? Stress cracks, spider cracks, and hairline cracks in the decks of older boats are, of course, not rare. Sometimes, they’re merely cosmetic, meaning they don’t penetrate the gelcoat. Sometimes, they go deeper and threaten an underlying laminate, which in many cases is cored. Because the latter scenario may evolve into a very expensive proposition (replacing coring materials in an existing deck is a messy, pricey job best left to the professionals at your yard), it makes sense to address all suspicious-looking cracks on board your boat as soon as possible, especially in areas that feel a little spongy (probably due to coring issues) when stepped on. Before you begin, however, a word of warning. There are numerous, inexpensive products on the market these days that purport to be easy fixes for hairline and other fractures in fiberglass laminates. Bent Fabric Jukebox Rarest.

I’ve personally tried two of the most popular of the lot—MagicEzy Hairline Fix and Captain Tolley’s Creeping Crack Cure—and, although certainly easy to use, neither one comes close to being a substitute for doing the job the right way, as follows: Step 1 Figure out what caused the cracks to begin with. Do they emanate from a stanchion base that flexes?

Do they spread out from a radius that vibrates or twists in a seaway? Do they surround an area that feels just a little spongy, as already noted? Think about it.

Step 2 Then toughen the laminate that contains the crack or cracks by solidifying it, either by thickening with more fiberglass, replacing coring materials, or adding structure. If you don’t do this, new cracks will most likely appear, probably not too long after you’ve just finished fixing the old ones. Step 3 Now, once you’ve removed all hardware, toerails, and other paraphernalia that may clutter or interfere, break out a Dremel tool with a conical bit. Then follow each separate crack with the Dremel as if you were wielding a pencil.

Use the highest speed possible, since low speeds may cause the bit to catch or swerve damagingly from your intended path. And let the Dremel do the work—several shallow passes will produce a cleaner, more accurate job than going for a single, deep, forced march. Step 4 As soon as the crack has been channeled out, wipe it clean with a solvent like acetone and, using a plastic putty knife, flush-fill it with gelcoat matched to the color of the surrounding area (if the channel isn’t too deep); polyester filler (if the channel is of medium depth); or polyester resin and fiberglass strands (if the channel is very deep and wide). It’s a good idea, by the way, to mix up a couple of small batches of gelcoat to help you approximate the color you need. Also, epoxy can be used in place of polyester in some situations, although it tends to be much harder than poly and therefore more difficult to sand smooth and finish. And don’t forget to temporarily cover all gelcoat repairs with plastic film—gelcoat does not cure thoroughly when exposed to air.

Step 5 Finishing is the last aspect of a proper fix. When dealing with gelcoat, dry sanding followed by wet sanding, with ever more refined, smoother grades of paper (starting with 220-grit and working your way down to super-fine 600-grit) is advisable, followed by a good wax or polish. When dealing with a polyester or epoxy repair, numerous cracks are usually involved, and you may be looking at a paint job of some kind in the near future.